
The Second-Oldest Swiss Watch Brand Makes a Watch Nobody Talks About. They Should.
Favre-Leuba has been making watches since 1737. The Chief collection is criminally underrated. Let us fix that.
Kiko Vera
Editor, Chasing Seconds · April 2, 2026
289 Years of Being Overlooked
Favre-Leuba has been making watches since before the United States existed. Founded in 1737, they are the second-oldest Swiss watch brand after Blancpain. They have survived wars, the quartz crisis, and multiple ownership changes. And somehow, almost nobody talks about them.
The Chief collection is where that should change.
The Chief
The Chief is Favre-Leuba's everyday watch. Clean dial, 40mm case, solid build quality. It does not have a moonphase or a tourbillon or a transparent caseback. It just tells time with confidence and clarity.
The design language borrows from Favre-Leuba's 1960s catalog -- an era when the brand was one of the most recognized names in Swiss watchmaking. The cushion case (a squared-off shape with rounded corners, like a throw pillow) gives it a retro identity that stands apart from the sea of round sports watches.
Why Nobody Talks About Them
Ownership changes. Favre-Leuba has been passed between corporate owners multiple times, and each transition disrupted their brand narrative. They are currently owned by the Tata Group (yes, the Indian conglomerate), which has invested in reviving the brand but has not cracked the marketing code yet.
The watches themselves are not the problem. The problem is awareness. In a market dominated by Rolex, Omega, and a dozen Instagram-friendly micro-brands, Favre-Leuba is the quiet kid in class who actually knows the material but never raises their hand.
The Value Proposition
Chief collection pieces come in around $1,500 to $2,500. For a brand with 289 years of history and Swiss manufacturing, that is remarkably accessible. A comparable Tudor or Longines costs more and has less historical depth.
You are also getting a conversation piece. Tell someone your watch brand is older than America and watch their eyebrows go up. That is worth something.
The CS Take
Favre-Leuba's Chief collection is one of the most undervalued propositions in Swiss watches. The quality is there. The heritage is there. The only thing missing is hype, and frankly, we find that refreshing. Sometimes the best recommendation is the one nobody else is making.

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